Ode to my Twenties

As I sit at my computer on the eve of my 30th birthday, I am contemplative. I don't remember slipping into 20 from my teens. Perhaps life was new and fresh and there wasn't much to contemplate. Or perhaps it was my deep desire to leave my teenage angst behind me, and begin "again". But 30 is different. It is an age to look back and reflect on my 20s.

Yes, I was happy to wave good-bye to my teens. It was a time where I had found a few glimmers of a brave world in which I wanted to dwell, but most of the time I lived in suspension waiting for those glimpses. My twenties led me into that world I longed for.

Twenty, 21, 22 and a part of 23 were spent at Ohio University. I can't even type that name without a smile creeping across my lips. I love my alma mater. She taught me to respect, to be open, to tolerate, to question, to reach out. Although there are many professors, friends, classes, jobs and so on that were influential, there are two influences that spring to mind above all else: girls and boys.

These "girls" are the three women that I lived throughout my years at OU. We met on the first day. I still remember sitting in the grass behind Biddle Hall, nervous and expectant. During our four years together we lived a lifetime. Through them I learned to serve and to be served. I learned the art of diplomacy. I learned to compromise, to give and to take. I simply adore these girls. And the "boys" were not romanitic interests, not boyfriends. They were Danish students that became dear friends who created a warm European cocoon in the midst of a Midwest campus and allowed me to feel apart of this European world long before I stepped foot in it. When I was offered the job in Prague it was their resounding "GO!" that gave me that little bit of extra courage to really strike out on my own European adventure.

So, off I went to Central Europe at the age of 23 to teach English. At 24 I backpacked around Europe for nearly 2 months. I saw Italy, France, Belgium, The Netherlands, Denmark and England. I found myself in the course of those many many miles, I found a self I'd always hoped had existed. But my poor mother. When I think of those messages I left her once a week from some new city, new land. She must have spent a lot time praying during my travels.

I decided that one year in Prague just wasn't enough. I needed more goulash and more language and more trains and more. So, at 25 I stayed. And one January evening I met a Czech. My Slovak roommate introduced us. This Czech knew where to find a painting that I had been wanting to see. The painting is of an old woman standing on a bridge. I remember standing on the metro platform waiting to meet this Czech. It wasn't about the painting any longer, it was about him.

And so I stayed. I planted my roots in this country in the heart of Europe. I spent my 26th, 27th, 28th, and finally my 29th year in the Czech Republic. I did so much loving and growing and learning and reading and traveling and cooking and meeting and feeling in those years that it would take me longer than a reader would have time for to write it all out. Let's just say that my twenties "lived happily ever after" and I'm looking forward to what this next decade will bring....

Thank you to all who have been with me throughout my twenties, and teens. I appreciate your friendship. The books we've read together. The giggles and smiles, and maybe we've even had some tears. I won't list all your names here. But if you are reading this, then know I was thinking of you as I wrote it. I was thinking of that next cup of tea we'd share and a warm embrace. Thank you.

History Hunting in Žižkov

Twenty years ago this November the world changed. I'm sure in the past month you've been bombarded with images of the Berlin Wall falling, of crowds tinkling keys in Wenceslas Square and Romanians fighting in the streets back in 1989.

Prague did much to commemorate this event. There were outdoor exhibitions, radio and tv programs, newspaper articles. I felt close to this Czechoslovakia I've heard so much about but never actually seen. The country I live in is not that nation that I see in the photos and hear stories about.

And that connection to history is what excited me so much about the newly opened National Memorial on Vítkov Hill. The Memorial was built during the First Republic, in the 1930s, to commemorate the soldiers who fought in World War I. But under the Communist government it was converted to a mausoleum for Communist Leaders. The fate of the Memorial was uncertain in the 90s, but recently extensive renovations have been done and it now exhibits a complete and interactive history of the Czech Republic.

It's a must see for those interested in time travel, because it will open up a portal to the Czech past as you've never seen before.

www.nm.cz/expozice-detail.php?f_id=95

J word

Usually this is my platform to air my travels and experiences. But today I'm turning it over to H. We were both were saddened when we heard about the recent shootings at Ft Hood and our hearts went out to the families. And we also discussed the implication of this on the men and women of Muslim background serving in the army. Our discussion of the backlash came to fruition in various heated and inflammatory remarks found throughout the Facebook community.

Here is H's reaction, as someone looking in from beyond the borders:

Jan Autrata November 10 at 8:26pm

"Reading all your posts makes me feel better. I'm from a country you've never heard before from the middle of the Europe. Our democracy is quite young in comparison to yours, and our constitution was based on western democratic constitutions as yours. It's nice to hear that just not in my country people are ignoring basic human rights, that they are thinking that human beings are not equal and that some religions are better than others. I thought for awhile that we have a long way to go, but I see now that we are already there or even in front of you. Thanks to xenophobic people like you we see that just having democracy for ages is not enough. You need some intelligence to use it as well. You are just like people we fought some sixty years ago. They thought that Jews were not good enough. They thought that Slavic people were not good enough. They were wrong. And that's why I can write this.

But on the another hand, It's so foolish to judge whole community by acts of a sole person. Otherwise we should have put all the Germans in jail, do not let them to live in the free world. We should have to eliminate all white people in the US because some of them were slave owners. But that would be a big mistake. Because most of them are people who are open minded. Who fought for rights and freedom of other countries. Who are not negligent. Who are trying to help other nations, communities to come over their dark present. If you think that by separating them from your lives you make world better you are wrong. You are just going to make gap bigger.....

Just want to let you know that you should read and think what you are going to post before you do that.If anyone wants to talk to me about this I would more than happy, because I don't like other people to think that they are better than anyone else and I would rather talk to people I disagree with than shoot them. I know how is to be treated like person of second class.I'm always treated like this when I go to the US .....

PS: Just want to say that I'm a white male from a country with a Christian past which is even longer than your country's history...."

Jan

"Munch"-ing on Halloween

If I had to design the perfect way to spend a Halloween afternoon, it would have to be exactly the Halloween I just had in Vienna.

I went back to Vienna to visit H, as it had been some time since we'd seen each other. We had no plans, except to hit up the international food market again for some brilliant Lebanese bread and hummus.

As we meandered down the long avenues we ran into Leopold Museum. A huge banner hung on the museum inviting us to come in and visit their exhibition: "Edvard Munch and the Uncanny". It sounded intriging. H had heard a piece on the radio praising the exhibition, and years ago when I was in Oslo, Norway, I'd wanted to go to the Munch Museum but it had been closed due to the daylight theft of "The Scream". So, it seemed an opportunity we couldn't pass up.




Leopold Museum is 5 floors of exquisite art. H and I started on the top floor and wondered through collections of Impressionism, Expressionism and art nouveau. We got lost in the world of artist Albin Egger-Lienz, with scenes of mountains and agriculture and rural life. And we discovered that Egon Schiele had spent significant amounts of time in the Czech Republic. Armed with this knowledge, we were able to pick out buildings we knew by heart in his patchwork quilt images of quaint towns.

The Munch collection was located on the subterranean floor. The lighting was dimmed and the paintings were hung on dark blue walls. The emotional turmoil of his subjects, the twisted images and mood lighting all contributed more to an aura of haunted house than world renowned museum. If someone had said "Boo!", I'm sure half the people in the exhibition would have jumped. In fact, the museum was giving special Halloween tours around midnight to brave patrons who thought their nerves could handle Munch on Halloween at midnight.

We didn't stick around to find out if "The Scream" would live up to its name.


www.leopoldmuseum.org/index_en.html

Otakar Lebeda

Paintings and exhibitions seem to be my theme for cultural tips recently. This weekend is no exception. I spent part of Saturday afternoon in the Waldstein Riding School Gallery (Valdštejnská jízdárna) enjoying paintings from the late 1800s by Otakar Lebeda.

The young man showed an interest in art from a young age and was accepted to the Art Academy at only 15. He was a trained in landscapes.He traveled throughout the Czech Republic, as well as France, painting the scenes around him. At only age 22 he shot and killed himself due to a long suffering with depression and dissatisfaction with his work.

His early work is quite "correct", with each blade of grass as it should be. But as he develops as an artist, his talent for taking an every day scene and transforming it into lights, shadows and strokes of the brush that are full of emotion also develops. Had he lived, I'm sure he would have rivaled other well-known impressionists.

Most of the works in this exhibition are on loan from private collectors and haven't been exhibited before. A few of his works hang in the National Gallery, but this is the largest exhibit of his work ever organized.

A walk through this exhibition will make you long for the country side, feel color as an emotion and give you a greater appreciation for talent.

(If you go after 16.00, then the ticket is discounted 50kc)

www.ngprague.cz/cz/10/0/2433/sekce/otakar-lebeda-1877-1901/

Nuremberg

Near our flat is a highway. If you get on this highway and head west for about 300 kilometers you will find yourself in the delightful little town of Nuremberg, Germany.

The name might strike the scholar of WWII history as having a precarious past but today the medieval town has so much more to offer.

H. and I decided to do a day trip a few weekends ago. The destination wasn't as important as the journey, as my reason for wanting to take the day trip was to see what our VW Passat could do on the German autobahn with no official speed limit. All I'll say about that drive is "WOOHOO"!

Nuremberg has a delightful old town with a lively central square, castle and strong city walls. Nuremberg's attraction is its atmosphere. There are small open markets scattered throughout the old town. People walk slowly and enjoy the colors, smells and music of street musicians.

A must for any visitor to Nuremberg are its famed sausages (Nürnberger Bratwürste). They are small white spicy sausages served three to a bun at the outdoor stands or a plate of six to eight served with sauerkraut if you prefer to sit in a local pub with a pint of local beer.

We couldn't have spent a better day than one filled with fast driving, good food and smooth beer. Maybe we'll journey down that highway near our flat again in the not too distant future...

60-second smiles

Here are a few little snapshots of life that have made me smile recently:

Pick a language, any language

I've begun my Christmas shopping. The cold weather and the realization that I'll be home soon has prompted me to get started. But I'm not a great shopper or gift-idea person, so I brought along my better half who happens to be an excellent gift-idea person.

H. and I communicate in English, with the occasional Czech word thrown in when necessary. However, as we popped in and out of small stores we found ourselves in a bit of a linguistic puzzle. We realized that the language we used in the shop depended on who spoke first, us or the shopkeeper.

The first store we went into was a wooden toy store and we were in the midst of a discussion when we crossed the threshold, so the shopkeeper greeted with a strong, "Hello!" and addressed us in English. The second store was full of traditional crafts and handmade goods and we were quiet as we entered, so the shopkeeper greeted us with a friendly "Dobrý den" and continued to us in Czech. After conversing with her in Czech for five or 10 minutes, Honza turned to me and asked a question in English. The shopkeeper made a funny face and asked if it was ok to continue speaking in Czech or if she should switch to English. Honza and I agreed Czech was fine, to the amusement of the woman.

And so we spent the afternoon experimenting with sociolinguistics and confusing poor shopkeepers all over Prague.

Nuts for Nuts

I arrived at the office of one of my students and on his desk was a large plastic bag of walnuts. He asked if I like walnuts and asked me to take as many as I would like. I asked if he had brought them from his cottage, as I know many Czechs that gather nuts and fruit from their cottage trees.

No, they weren't from his cottage. The nuts, in fact, were from an elderly man that was looking for spare parts for a home appliance. As my student's company sells and deals with new and used appliances, the elderly man came to request some small nuts and bolts that he wasn't able to find in the hardware stores in order to repair his home appliance.

These small pieces didn't have a real monetary value so my student gave them to the man for free. A few hours later the old man returned to the company with a bag of nuts from his own trees to thank my student. Nuts for nuts, what a fair and tasty exchange!


Pantomime in the morning

Public transportation makes me happy for many many reasons: environment, economics, convenience and free entertainment.

Last week a mom with her two little girls, about 6 and 3 years old, got on the early tram with me. Usually I'm engrossed in a book when I'm on public transport, but that morning it was just too early to get the brain moving so I was people watching. The youngest girl sat in front of me and the mom and older sister took seats further up the car. The little girl refused to sit with them, maintaining her independence. The mom kept an eye on the little one, but let her have the freedom to stay where she was. All over the little girl was written that childhood pride of "being big and being on one's own". She counted her fingers, looked around at the people standing and generally entertained herself.

Then something caught her eye. She began to do a curious series of pantomimes. First her hands on her cheeks in surprise, then putting her hands up and shrugging in confusion, next she put one hand on her mouth and the other on top of her head. I was quite interested in what she saw that was prompting her little drama. At the next stop the family got off the tram and I had a better view of what the girl had been looking at. It was an advertisement for a new play at one of the many theaters. The ad was done in the Andy Warhol style of blocks of photos colored brightly. The woman in the ad was making various faces and poses. The little girl had been imitating the ad.

Now, when I'm on the tram and I see this ad I have an overwhelming desire to imitate the woman in the poster. Oh, to be a child again...

Vienna: Taste and Sight

If Vienna is anything, it is grand. This city shines imperialism. Vienna was the capital of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire for several hundred years and this regal past is displayed everywhere. The streets are broad. There are no meandering cobblestone lanes to get lost in. Any moment Maria Teresa herself could appear in a horse drawn carriage from the feel of things.

The palaces are grand, the gardens are grand, the music is grand and the museums are grand. To keep my head level and feet moving I had two main objectives for this trip to Vienna: the Impressionist exhibition at the Albertina Museum and the Saturday morning flea market.

H. had recommended the exhibition. He's working in Vienna currently and had seen an advertisement for it. He knows my taste well, because I am an Impressionism devotee. I've seen Van Gogh paintings in almost every major European city and I've spent hours with Monet. (In fact, an Impressionism painting was actually the reason for our first real date...but that's a story for another day.)

The exhibition was executed incredibly well. The paintings themselves were, as to be expected, marvelous. But the real icing on the cake was how well detailed and educational the information was. There were genuine easels and artist chairs and props from the time period set up in mock studios for the museum-goers to get a feel for how the artists worked. When there was an interesting fact about the painting, canvas or method then there was a large detailed print explaining what to look for. An example is a painting of a wind swept beach. Tiny grains of sand were actually embedded in the paint. There was a printed blow-up poster detailing the grains and giving an explanation of how the artist would have painted on location.

www.albertina.at/jart/prj3/albertina/main.jart?rel=en&reserve-mode=active&content-id=1202307119317&ausstellungen_id=1229505194745


Art is art, but the Viennese flea market is an art form to be savored with eyes, ears, tongue and fingers. The market is not just a few tables and stands, but city blocks and blocks of happiness. The first part of the market is for food items, most of the stands are actually small brick and mortar shops. You can whet your appetite with nearly any food item from any corner of the world: French cheeses, Swiss chocolates, Lebanese breads, Greek olives, Indian spices. I was quite literally a kid in a candy shop. I think I embarrassed my dear boyfriend more than once with my exuberant outcries of joy at some new found food item.




The second half of the flea market is for the normal folk to rent a table and set out whatever treasures or junk they would like to pawn off at an unreasonable price to locals and tourists alike. There were a few items that caught my eye. I'm a sucker for old books. I love the feel, the smell, the must. The costume jewelery always reminds me of playing dress up as a little girl. And the porcelain and china almost always draw me in with unusual color or shape or design. But all my money had gone into my tummy by the time I made it to the stands, so I browsed and made a mental note to begin to set aside a flea market fund for my next trip to Vienna, which I hope will be very soon.

www.wien.info/en

Vinobraní!!!

Many nations are known for their wine culture: the French, the Italian, even Hungarians. The Czechs don't have this international reputation but for those who are lucky enough to be in this lovely little country in the early autumn there is an experience like no other.

Vinobraní is the traditional celebration of the grape harvest in the autumn here in the Czech Republic. If you go to the southern region of Moravia, you will find villagers dressed in traditional clothing, large dances and tiny towns decorated to the hilt....and of course WINE. And here in Prague there is also an annual vinobraní celebration, although there are stages with large screens and rock bands instead of peasant women.

Now, you must understand that the wine of vinobraní isn't what you are used to buying at the local shop. This is a specialty called burčák. Burčák (bor-chak) is "new wine". It's a little like hard grape juice. The key is to drink the grape juice that is being prepared to become wine just before it begins to ferment. The Czechs have many various legends and wives' tales involving the health benefits and how many liters will bring those desired benefits.

I went to the festival in Vinohrady with my lovely friends, the Princs. (Thanks for the photos, Angela!) We ate and we drank. Kolbasa and potato pancakes helped coat our tummies with a nice layer of fat to help in the digestion of burčák. We discussed love, life, religion and politics...all with the help of a little burčák. At the end of the evening, the vineyard hillside of the park was lit up with fireworks and the ooohs and awwws of happy people.

Only winter, spring and summer until another vinobraní celebration...I guess absence will make the heart grow fonder (and the stomach stronger).

Run, Tasci, Run

In the spring I wanted to run a charity run. I got very ill the night before and spent the day in bed. I'd have rather been running...

So, I was determined to make the Tesco 3.8k Run for Life. The run supports cancer research. Now, 3.8k isn't a marathon but it's nothing to sneeze at. I've been running about 3k three to four times a week for the last few months so I knew I could do it physically, but still I was a bit nervous about running with, in and around so many people.

When I arrived at Old Town Square on Saturday evening, I had a little relief when I saw my co-runners. About half of them were either under 5 years old or over 60. Also, I could see by the footwear and clothing that many people were planning on taking a leisurely walk to the finish line.

The start was good. I felt strong about my pacing, even when I was passed by a woman with a baby stroller and her toddler. In fact, the first 3 kilometers were excellent. The only point at which I thought "Why??" was running on the cobblestone covered Mánesuv most (bridge). Cobblestones + Running = Sore Ankles.

The last 0.8 was the most rewarding. Nearly the entire length the finish line was in sight. Spectators were cheering and the mood was electric. There was also such a sense of community. There was one girl who wanted to give up. She was running with friends but she had stopped and was trying to climb over the barrier gate. She just kept saying, "I can't..I can't.." So several runners, including myself, started yelling "Come on!" and "You can do it!" Then the people watching began cheering her on and yelling encouragement. She put her head up and chin out, yelled "OK, I can" and made a mad dash for the finish.

I came in a few steps behind her, with a huge grin from ear to ear. I hope to see you there next year...or at least hear about the local charity run you will do in your community for your health and for the wellbeing of others.



www.praguemarathon.com/en/2009/tesco-prague-grand-prix/tesco-running-for-health-3-8-km/about-the-race

Growing up Kladno

I've always said that you couldn't pay me enough to go back to high school. Well, I guess that wasn't true because I spent last week making my bread and butter at a high school in a town not far from Prague called Kladno.

There were seven of us English teachers from the USA, the UK, Australia, and New Zealand. Our job was to lead conversation sessions on aspects of our own country and culture. I chose "Ohio" (none of the students had been there...big surprise!) and "Rites of Passage in Childhood and Adolescence".

The students were all last year students, preparing to take their final exams and spread their wings and fly out into the real world. We teachers were there to give them a booster shot of English conversation to help them with their English exams. But I think each of us probably were given as much by the students as we gave to them.

These young adults were lovely. They were well-mannered, polite and had that Czech sense of humor where one line can make you chuckle all day. I was impressed that compared to the high school where I went, these students had a lot of freedom. They could have a snack in class, they carried around bottles of water and they went out for lunch because there was no cafeteria in the school. But they were so responsible with the freedom given. They weren't late for class, they didn't disrupt the teacher or other students and at the end of the day they picked up the extra papers, threw away any trash and put the chairs on the desks without being asked or instructed. Lovely.

Although Ohio isn't quite as fascinating as New Zealand when you first introduce it, it does have some unique points. The obsession with the buckeye, our history of a love of flight, skunks and peanut butter all led to lengthy conversation pieces.

Rites of Passage such as the tooth fairy, driving at 16 (it is 18 in the Czech Republic) and a drinking age of 21 (it is also 18 here) showed that we all grow up in a community that tries to make us happy, healthy and safe- if that is always successful is a topic for another day.


I would still say you couldn't pay me enough to go back to my high school days, but I'd gladly spend a few more days at high school here in the Czech Republic.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We played the game "Have you ever...?". Here are some of my favorite questions that students asked, they show that kids are the same all over the world:

-Have you ever missed your school bus?
-Have you ever been on a date with someone you thought was cute, but now you think is horrible?
-Have you ever slept all night at the school?
-Have you ever been to driving school?
-Have you ever drunk alcohol when you were under age?
-Have you ever got lost when you were young?
-Have you ever been in a circus?
-Have you ever been angry with your parents because they didn't allow you to go to a party?





www.gymnasiumkladno.cz

Trains and Presidents

Without straying too far from home, we can find lots of great adventures to fill an afternoon. This Saturday we entertained ourselves with a few local museums.

The Train Museum at Rakovník was our first stop. Our noses were filled with the smell of coal and oil. Our eyes were full of muscular engines. It was great fun to climb into the conductor's controls and stand on a bit of history.

www.os.cd.cz/muzeum/




Staying with the theme of engines, we next headed to the presidentia-holiday-home town of Lány. A small car museum, which is hidden around a corner and behind a posh hotel, is full classic Fords and ultra-modern race cars.

www.auto-muzeum.cz




Lastly, and almost as an afterthought, we stopped at the Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk museum. Known as TGM, he was the man who fought for an independent Czechoslovakia in 1918 and became the first president of the Republic. He is held in high esteem and much admired by the Czech people. (And he was married to an American!!)

www.muzeumtgm.cz/cz/

Southern Charm

Rain, rain, go away.
Come again another day.

Well, the rain didn't go away so we decided we would go away last weekend. We drove down to the south of the Czech Republic to find windy roads and charming castles.

Our first stop was Červená Lhota. The red chateau sits on a tiny island which connects to an outcrop of land jutting into the lake by a stone bridge. Tourists in rented boats row
under the bridge and around the still lake. I was so warmed by the perfection of it all that not even a little rain could dampen my fairy tale visions.

www.zamek-cervenalhota.eu



It is cliche, but Hluboká nad Vltavou is the stereotypical Disney castle. Now, this castle was built long before Disney's great-grandfather even was a tinkle in somebody's eye but it is the perfect place to run into Sleeping Beaty having a bit of a nap.




I have done many castle tours, but this one was one of the best. The castle was very well curated. I felt as if I was really peaking in on a long ago century. Perhaps a servant would pop out from around the corner or the lady of the house would be surprised by a group of tourists as she mediated in her private chapel.

www.zamek-hluboka.eu


And as we transported ourselves back into the 21st century and headed back to the big city, this quaint view of farm life greeted us....

One Minute International Relations

Tonight we went for a long walk down the hill to the center and decided to take the funicular back to the top of the hill. As we were waiting for the cable car to fill with tourists going up for the view and students going up to their dorms, a couple in their 50s sat down next to us. They were smartly dressed and obviously well travelled.

The man asked us how often the car went up and down the hill and if the ticket would be valid for the journey down in hesitant English. We answered him simply and slowly. He consulted his wife in a speedy and energetic language I didn't recognize. She repeated the questions to us in a stronger English and we confirmed what we'd told her husband.

And then the American in me couldn't hold it any longer..."Where are you from?" came spilling out of my mouth. She paused, considered and then said, "Iran...Do you know Iran?" I smiled warmly and said of course I knew of Iran. "REALLY? You know Iran?! How?" Now it was my turn to pause and consider, "From the news. Your country has been in the news a lot recently."

"Yes, we change. We change slowly, but we change. There are many young people. They make my country better. We aren't like these leaders...we are different. See me, I have nothing on my head or on my face. We want to be like you. We change." She spilled these sentiments out desperately, assuring herself as much as trying to make me understand the plight of the Iranian people. It was moving and sweet, I wanted to hug her and immediately protest in front of an embassy. She was satisfied to be able to show a modern and democratic face to this westerner and this westerner was honored that she choose to speak so freely about her country.

Koněpruské jeskyně

This isn't the moon, it's the depth of the Czech Republic. On a blazing hot afternoon we were desperately seeking a way to be cool. Summer cinema is in quick decline and swimming would only take us into that evil sun. So, we decided to go to the bowels of the earth where it is dark and cool.

We drove a little ways outside of Prague, near the river town of Beroun to Koněpruské jeskyně. These caves gave us the refreshment we craved, and quite an education as well.

The tour took us through tight passages and echoing organ rooms. Each stop on the tour had a little piece of history waiting for us. There was a room where ancient extinct monkey bones had been found and another room where counterfeiters pounded out cooper coins covered in a thin layer of silver just a few hundred years ago.

Koněpruské jeskyně was an oasis of chill in the dessert of summer....But I would recommend it for any time.





www.konepruske-jeskyne.cz

Eating Out

I'm a slow-fooder. Food is almost as interesting to me as travel. Sweet, sour, salty, exotic or local, vegetarian and meat...anything that is fresh and tasty can pass my lips. Here are some of our favorites...

U Bilěho Lva
This is a great little local restaurant for us. The menu is basic and yet creative. The stables are a variety of traditional Czech meals, meats and pastas. They change the menu every few months so you can't get addicted a favorite and never try something new. The herbs are always fresh and the taste bursts in your mouth. But the real treat at U Bilěho Lva (At the White Lion) is the staff. Every waiter is friendly, smiling, helpful and informative. This is worth more than it's weight in chocolate.
www.u-bileholva.cz


Malý Buddha
As the name implies, this one is an Asian themed restaurant with a Mongolian owner who personally oversees the food and seating. If fresh is what you dig in your food, this is the place for you. The ginger tea has the ginger root floating in the pot, the bean sprouts crunch and pop in your mouth and the spring rolls lovingly hand folded. I recommend sitting in the back by the Buddha statue. These back tables are Japanese style, low to the ground with diners sitting on cushions.
www.malybuddha.cz

Restaurace na Prachandě
You need a car to get to this one, but if you are anywhere in the vicinity of Dobřiš you should stop by. If you are lucky enough to be there for the daily menu, you'll be served a very healthy serving of Czech fare that won't make a dent in your wallet. The normal menu is also chalk-full of old favorites and some very yummy house specials.
www.prachanda.cz/?A=homepage

Tandoor
Looking for spicy and affordable Indian in Prague? Look no further, Tandoor will make your nose run but your eyes won't water when the bill comes. The owners are very friendly. Plan for a long meal, it can take a bit of time for the goodness to come from the kitchen.
www.tandoor.cz

Forest Theater/Lesní Divadlo

What's better than nature and culture? Culture in nature! On Saturday night H. and I joined his family for a night of theater in the forest. In the town of Řevnice, about 30k from Prague, there is an outdoor amphitheater and stage. This hosts various events throughout the year, including concerts and theatrical productions.

The play we attended was called Sbalí Karla z Monte Carla? (Is she going to get Karl from Monte Carlo?) A host of characters are holidaying in a posh hotel in Monte Carlo and the audience gets little glimpses into their everyday lives. The actors, who were local amateurs, did a wonderful job bringing to life stereotypical characters, such as the desperate housewife, redneck travelers, politicians, and young blondie girls after old rich men. The audience chuckled for the entire 2 hours, enjoying every joke.

www.revnice.cz

Hvezda Park-The Star of Prague 6

I missed out on the 3.8k Family Fun run in May due to a stomach bug. But there is another charity run coming up in September and I am determined to get myself, healthy and whole, to this run. That means...I need to train.

Normally, I run up the hill near our flat to Ladronka Park (www.ladronka.com/cs). Ladronka deserves its own little blurb but that will come another day. But today I had a little more time on my hands and I wanted to push myself a bit so instead of going up the hill (which is a push in and of itself!) I decided to head to Hvezda Park.

The word hvezda means star in Czech. The park is called this after the shape of the 16th century hunting lodge that sits in the center. The hunting lodge is built in the shape of a 6-sided star. The park was built originally for the kings to have their own hunting playground. The park is surrounded by thick walls which allowed deer and other game to roam freely, until the hungry king was ready for a hunt.

Aside from all the great history, it's the perfect place for a run because it is exactly 1 kilometer from the main entrance gate to the hunting lodge. There are several other paths, some well maintained and graveled and some paths wander through the trees. You really feel like you are a million miles from the capital city.

After a few circuits around the park my muscles were happily tired and it was time to come home to dinner.




www.worldspan.homeandabroad.com/browse/details/sites.ha?mainInfoId=117420&tabRef=details&rqs=$rqs

www.prague.cz/summer-residence-hvezda/

Tip in Praha 10

This one is for my friends in Prague. I've discovered a small leisure gem in the midst of Prague 10. After a rather intense couple weeks of classes some colleagues, students and I met up for a relaxing afternoon. Someone suggested a recreation park near Strašnická metro. I'd never heard of it but I'm always up for something new so was excited to give it a try.

As I said, it is a gem. The park is a kid's paradise, and not too shabby for us adults either. There are spraying water fountains that children can run through and jump on, swing sets and jungle gyms, sand pits, several refreshment stands, picnic tables, a full restaurant, courts for various sport and a rental for sports equipment, and a climbing wall that is reported to be the largest in central Europe.

Check it out for a day of fun in the sun.

www.gutovka.cz

Spitfires and Shakespeare

When most think of summer holidays, they dream of beaches and salt water. But my dear and I had our sights set higher-We were looking to the skies. We decided to head off to jolly England, the West Midlands to be exact, to be enchanted at the Flying Legends air show at the Imperial War Museum at Duxford.

Day 1

Early start! Our flight left Prague at 7.30am. We flew with SkyEurope. It was a relief that we actually had a flight, considering their bankruptcy announcement days before we were due to leave.

We arrived a Luton airport and rented a car. As we all know, England drives on the left side of the road which means the steering wheel is on the right hand. I have to say it took me a minute to get used to sitting on the "driver's side" and being the passenger!

We drove up to Coventry and picked up our friend A. Our destination was the Royal Air Force Museum at Cosford. The museum was very well curated. The displays led you through a century of history, all located on an actual RAF base with airplanes flying overhead and soldiers in boots marching in the distance.

In the evening we sat beside a canal at The Blue Lias Inn in rural England sipping ale and laughing with friends.

Day 2

This was the big day. We had a full English breakfast from the hands of our B&B owner and hopped into the car towards Duxford. H knew what to expect, but this was all new to me. My first surprise was how many people were there. I knew the air show was a big deal, but just how big had escaped me until then. Thousands of people, mostly with telescopic cameras, milled around looking for a piece of grass with a good view.

The show was breathtaking. The airplanes were beautiful, really and truly with goose bumps beautiful. I've always admired aviation and enjoyed flying, but on this day I fell in love. History flew in front of us for three hours, swirling us up and down and around with dog fights and smoke.

At the end, I felt so full I could burst. As we drove away from the airfield, the show was wrapping up. A Spitfire and Messerschmidt from WWII flew over us and for an eerie moment we were transported back to a time where the greatest generation of men and women strived for freedom and justice.

Day 3

No trip to the West Midlands can be complete without a jaunt to Stratford-upon-Avon to pay respects to the master of our language, Will Shakespeare. We began with a pilgrimage to the church where he and his family are buried. Then we briefly walked through the city center, which was so packed with tourists that it was nearly impossible to actually see the buildings. We found solace in a park, near the church, where a free production of Shakespeare's "The Tempest" was being played.

The outdoor performance was nothing that we expected and everything one could ever hope for out of Shakespeare. The cast were dressed in odd ragamuffin clothing and had white clown makeup on their faces. The performance was in a park, and each scene was moved to different locations to make the audience feel like they were moving in time and space with the characters. The cast members who weren't in the current scene stood intermingled with the audience and whispered funny bits, such as, "This guy is a bit rubbish, but in a few minutes I'll be on and you'll see a real actor." You felt like you were in the play, you became part of the scene. Superb!





Day 4

Castles, castles, castles.

Warwick Castle was our first stop. It is a proper medieval castle that has been transformed into a kid amusement park with trampolines, jousting and dress-up. As people without children, we avoided spending too much time there! The village was classic winding streets and antique shops that could suck me in for hours.

Blenheim Palace was second. It was built in the 18th century to commemorate the Battle of Blendtheim. Most recently it is memorable as the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. In one word the palace is: Grand. The parks and gardens spread and twist and delight for acres. The palace interior is a maze of glitz, glint and glamour. Next to Blenheim is the tiny village of Woodstock. A good place for a sandwich and photography.

In the evening we had a very English dinner of fish and chips. As dusk approached, we spent our last moments of daylight trampsing around the ruins of Kenilworth Castle vanquishing dragons and conjuring up the spirits of "Google" to divine the mystery of the area's history.

Day 5

We had an early breakfast, fresh and yummy as it was each day, and headed back to Duxford Imperial War Museum to spend the morning exploring the hangers we hadn't been able to visit during the air show. It was stunning to see these machines that were captivating in the skies, as captivating on the ground.

Finally, it was off to Luton again to fly into the skies ourselves and head home. Oh, home sweet home.

Prague Museum Night 2009

I look forward every summer to Museum Night. It has been a fixture of the Prague cultural program for 5 years. I was introduced to it by my boyfriend, who used it to woo me and win me over to be his years ago. Museum Night is always a Saturday night in the middle of June when all the museums of Prague open their doors from 6.00pm-1.00am to the public for free.

Every year the crowds have grown, and last year it was overwhelming trying to get into any museum. So I decided this year I would only choose one or two I really wanted to see and try to avoid massive crowds. I went with my a place that always comforts me, and where smiles come easily. I visited the third floor of the Prague National Gallery in Veletržní palác. Czech and French artist from 1900 to 1930. I adore impressionism. The straight lines, the dabs of color, the world seen not as it is but as it is felt. I spent some time with Václav Špála, traveling on lines of rose and green to rivers of blue that flowed and pulled me into their depths.



I wanted to also go to the Museum of Czech Cubism at the Black Madonna house. However, the line was down the steps and backed out the door. I am willing to come back on a sleepy day in the future and pay for the privilegde of walking alone in the gallery. I walked from the Black Madonna house through bendy alleyways to Old Town Square. My camera came along on the trip with me and we got some good photos.

As the night dripped and covered the daylight and dark clouds rolled in, I found a tram to take me home.



www.prazskamuzejninoc.cz/clanek.php?id=1&l=en
http://www.ngprague.cz/en/16/sekce/national-gallery-in-prague/

Budapest 09

It wasn't my first trip to Budapest. It wasn't even my second. This was my third time I boarded a train and headed to Budapest. And I was hoping third time would be the charm for me, because up until now I had not been converted into a Budapest fan.

The first two trips had involved dodgy accommodation, gloomy weather and unfulfilled expectations. But I decided that this trip, this third time east, would be the trip to make me fall in love with Budapest. And it worked! Well, I can't say I'm in love with Budapest but I now have a strong appreciation and affection for her.

I took the train to Bratislava to meet T and G on a Friday afternoon. We had a nice traditional Slovak meal in the center and then hopped a train to Budapest. We arrived in the cool of the afternoon and found our hotel easily. The hotel was actually a building of family apartments that had been reconstructed into rented apartments. Great location, clean and comfortable with internet, a kitchen, washer and fridge (www.agapetours.hu). Home away from home.

Dinner was a nice traditional Hungarian meal with a live Hungarian band serenading us, and then trying to badger us into buying them a round of shots. The beer was a sweet Pilsner and went down smoothly, facilitating my sweet dreams.


Saturday the only plan was the spas. We spent hours soaking and swimming in the warm waters of Széchenyi Medicinal Bath. We had a long walk to the park, enjoyed a wine festival that offered not only wine but cheeses, meats and sweets...a feast for eyes and mouth.


Sunday we walked through the center and watched the sleepy city wake up. Our journey ended at the Castle, where we parted ways. I found my way to the train station, fully satisfied with my third Budapest experience.

A Walk in the Woods

My faithful travel buddy C. and I hit the road for a day trip this weekend. The original plan was to take the train to Beroun, walk to a village called Koněprusy where we'd have lunch and then continue on to Srbsko for a drink and catch the train back to Prague.

Well, after an hour or so of wondering around the village of Jarov, the surrounding forest and rock quarry with no success of finding the trail markers we figured out that there was in fact no trail. It had probably been destroyed by the quarry and we were making ourselves crazy.

So, we went back to Beroun and had lunch and took a look at the map. We discovered there was another trail quite near going from Beroun to Srbsko on the other side of the hill, going through the villages of Tetín and Koda.

What a pleasant journey! Tetín is a lovely village. It has a small square with a pond and a museum. The brightly painted church stands off to the side with its steeple stretching into the heavens.

From Tetín we headed up a hill, through the trees and found tiny Koda. Another 3k walk and we were in Srbsko sitting at a great restaurant cooling off with the Czech national drink Pilsner...

Jenštejn

For my 16th birthday I asked for a current world atlas. This sentence may be the best way to sum up my love of maps. Every border, river and small circle indicating a city that could be explored fills me with a feeling something like wonder and delight. And many a map has introduced me to some little wonderful bit of the world I'd never have found on my own.

And that is how we came to Jenštejn. After visiting the Prague Aviation Museum, which is a much visited and much loved favorite of ours, we had some time to kill. Out came the trusty old road map of the Czech Republic with its well marked "points of interest". The map told us that not far from the museum there was a small village called Jenštejn that had some ruins of a castle.

My experience with villages that are suppose to have ruins is that it involves a long walk through tall grass until you find a few old stones. That's it. But Jenštejn proved to be different. As we drove into the village the tower of the ruined castle stood in the center. We parked and walked towards the tower. A tiny street led us in a circle around the castle tower. A century or two ago the villages decided to build their little village houses around the base of the tower. Intriguing!


www.jenstejn.com/index.php?nid=6150&lid=CZ&oid=996475

(More of my photos at www.flickr.com/honza-tasci)

A weekend away..

Basel, SWITZERLAND

As I wandered through the winding lanes of Basel, I found a city that encapsulates everything I love about living in Europe in one little nutshell of a town.

A group of elderly men walked leisurely down the street and discussed the European central bank system in Italian. (Those semesters of Italian classes are still paying off...) Children ran home from school, making plans in French. The shop keepers greeted me in German. In this small town language, nationality and roots mix and blend and run into a beautiful tapestry. That is what I love about Europe.







Les Vosges Mountains, FRANCE

Drive out of Basel and the calm pastoral countryside of France welcomes you with peace and quiet. The mountains roll and meander, hiding deep blue lakes and snow covered peaks. We laid on the soft grasses and breathed deep the cool air.





Colmar, FRANCE

Charming. I don't think I ever really knew the full meaning of the word charming until I walked the streets of Colmar. Every step, every new street, every small canal made me catch my breath. It is enough to know that such beauty exists and that we humans had a hand in creating it. Charming.

Foot Soldiers WW1

There are many many many reasons why I adore my boyfriend. One of my favorites is how he gets as excited about history as I do. So, last weekend as we were taking a lovely walk in the lovely spring sun we passed a poster for an exhibition of photographs from anonymous foot soldiers from World War I our faces lit up and we both knew how we'd be spending the next hour.

The photos were touching. I expected to see a lot of photos with young men lined up and posed. However, the bright-eyed young men looking out at me from a time and a place I can hardly fathom were natural and authentic. There were images of camp sites, villages, military drills, coffees with friends as well as the more stark reminders of war such as charred churches and fallen comrades.

The exhibit groups photos according to themes. The opening photos all pertain to the daily life of the foot soldiers. The next grouping was photos of artillery used by the foot soldiers. Slowly, as the exhibit drew in the viewer, the groupings took on darker themes. There were a few "before and after'' photos of villages ravaged by the war.

Each photo was a reminder of how far we humans have come and how incredibly far we still have to go in our growth towards peace, harmony and respect.


www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle/calendar-of-prague-castle-actions/74.shtml

Monkeying Around

Did you know that according to the Forbes list of best zoos in the world, Prague Zoo ranks number 7?! And it's really no wonder, once you've visited the never ending parade of pavilions, habitats and exhibitions. Even in the drizzle of spring, we spent nearly 4 hours wandering through lions and tigers and bears...oh, my!

http://www.zoopraha.cz/en