Tonight we went for a long walk down the hill to the center and decided to take the funicular back to the top of the hill. As we were waiting for the cable car to fill with tourists going up for the view and students going up to their dorms, a couple in their 50s sat down next to us. They were smartly dressed and obviously well travelled.
The man asked us how often the car went up and down the hill and if the ticket would be valid for the journey down in hesitant English. We answered him simply and slowly. He consulted his wife in a speedy and energetic language I didn't recognize. She repeated the questions to us in a stronger English and we confirmed what we'd told her husband.
And then the American in me couldn't hold it any longer..."Where are you from?" came spilling out of my mouth. She paused, considered and then said, "Iran...Do you know Iran?" I smiled warmly and said of course I knew of Iran. "REALLY? You know Iran?! How?" Now it was my turn to pause and consider, "From the news. Your country has been in the news a lot recently."
"Yes, we change. We change slowly, but we change. There are many young people. They make my country better. We aren't like these leaders...we are different. See me, I have nothing on my head or on my face. We want to be like you. We change." She spilled these sentiments out desperately, assuring herself as much as trying to make me understand the plight of the Iranian people. It was moving and sweet, I wanted to hug her and immediately protest in front of an embassy. She was satisfied to be able to show a modern and democratic face to this westerner and this westerner was honored that she choose to speak so freely about her country.
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