Long Weekend

My H works abroad, which means we don't see each other all that often...but when we do, we know how to have a good time. A car, a full tank and an open road is what we love. This weekend was a holiday weekend in the Czech Republic. We did a bit of house work for a day or two and then decided we needed a break.

We got into the car and H started to drive. I'm usually the navigator but this time he knew where he was going and I was not in the loop. Our drive took us down some very narrow and curvy country roads. Good thing neither of us get motion sickness!

At the end of the road we stopped in an adorable, historical town called Rabštejn. The small house are maintained in their original style of the 19th century. There is a lovely 5k trail that runs through and around the village. The highlights along the trail are a hunting lodge that serves mouth-watering strudel, a rickety wooden bridge, a babbling brook and a Jewish cemetery.

On the way home we got a little turned around so we pulled into the parking lot of a monastery to check the map. Little did we know that they were holding a model airplane exhibition, although I accused my airplane enthusiast husband of planning the stop. We hoped out at Mariánský Týnec monastery and were welcomed into a lovely and warm place full of Czech cultural exhibitions showing traditional clothing, celebrations and household items.

What great surprises, planned and unplanned!

"Oh, the places you will go"

My first international experience was to Thailand in 1994. I was a 14 year old kid that had dreamed of nothing but foreign lands for all of her short life and there I was. The leader of our group read us the Dr Suess book "Oh, The Places You will Go" and I took that as my mantra. I wanted to "go places". I spent the next five years of my life raising money, working after school and pinching every penny so that I could spend my summers abroad. Before my 20th birthday I had been to Thailand twice, India, Bolivia and Russia. But spending a few weeks every summer exploring the unknown wasn't enough. I needed to live there.

So, I got a degree in teaching English as a means to take myself globe-trotting and when I finished at Ohio University I got myself a job in Central Europe. I landed in the Czech Republic with no expectations, no plans to stay or to wander, no idea what would come next.

And here I sit, eight years later, in the most beautiful city in the world. I didn't know back then that I would marry into this deep culture and rich land. I didn't know I'd grow and learn and change. I didn't know I'd be happier than I ever expected. But I am.

I'll be blogging some of those happy events over the next few weeks. Stay tuned to the adventures of what happens when traveling becomes living....

Run, Tasci, Run

Running may not be for everyone but it is for me. I like the quiet and peace of being alone in nature, just me and sky and grass. I'm not hardcore but I try to get out for a jog about 3 times a week.

A few years ago I decided that once I turned 30 I'd make an effort to run an organized race at least once a year until I hit 60. It's a good goal to keep me in permanent semi-shape for the coming years.

I did a fun run for charity 2 years ago and loved it. The atmosphere was electric. Thousands of people lined the streets of this city that I adore so much and made me feel like a champion. It was a high. And I was hooked.

Last year I was out of town during the annual Women's 5K in September but I was sure to train just the same. This year I hit the road again. All the training paid off and I had one of the best runs of this season. I felt great the whole run and the finish was strong. I had wanted to finish with a better time (I'd like to shave off about 5 minutes for the next 5K) but overall I was very satisfied.

The girls and I are already planning a half marathon relay race for next spring. I won't be hanging up my running shoes any time soon!

Bookworm: Full Circle

Back in my university days I fell in love with a book, Einstein's Dreams by Alan Lightman. The book is a fictional telling of the months during which Albert Einstein was developing his Theory of Relativity. It is a series of dreams that show time in different dimensions, spheres and movements. In one dream time moves slower the further from the ground one is, in another dream their are infinite universes where one person lives multiple lives, still another has time travelers hiding from the present they are confined to.

I loved the concept of time not being linear. I loved the idea of infinite possibility. The idea of free will and destination colliding. The book's author is a professor of English Lit and Physics at MIT. That explains a lot. His writing is beautiful and his prose moves effortless. I loved his writing. (If you've known me any length of time, I've probably tried to loan you or have given you a copy.)

SO, today I was on the tram reading Parallel Worlds by Michio Kaku. He is a theoretical physicist. I'm half way through the book and amazed. I'm amazed at how similar physics and philosophy can be, I'm amazed that there are equations that calculate what seem to be impossibilities, I'm amazed that their are people smart enough to come up with this stuff. But most amazing to me today was that while reading about the physics of time, I felt what I'll call a "full circle".

I realized that my Einstien's Dreams fasination wasn't just beautiful prose about "what ifs", these were actual theories that great minds had been debating for more than a hundred years. My heart skipped a little beat. I longed to get my hands on my copy of Einstein's Dreams. And then I nearly said out loud, "You are SUCH a nerd!"

I put this up on my travel blog as a reminder to myself that travel across time or continents or ideas is what opens the mind. I'm me because of the books I've read and the experiences I've experienced. I hope, out there in some distant parallel universe, another Tasci is reading this and smiling=)...

Summer Breezes

Summer 2011 has just flown by. It has been full of planning, thinking, worrying, celebrating and being.

Some of the things I've neglected to post in the past 2 months are:

1. Čestr Ambiente Restaurant: In one word is YUM! This is no place for vegetarians. It is a steak house that specializes in locally produced foods and high quality service. It is mid-price, so the perfect place to celebrate a special occasion when you want to splurge out a little.

2. Třebič. A little town with a little river and a big history. The old Jewish town is protected by UNESCO and gives a peak into the lives of inhabitants at the turn of last century.

3. Hořovice. I've heard that there are more than 500 castles and chateaus in the Czech Republic, and Hořovice is proof that they will sneak up on you. What a lovely chateau with lovely gardens hidden in the midst of a tiny town just a short drive into the countryside.

4. Sazava monestary, Krakovec castle ruin, and Zbiroh chateau. Honza and I love our drives. And a few weekends ago we did just that. We drove off explore little places we'd never been before. Zbiroh chateau was such a surprise! It is a beautifully renovated property with lots of walking trails that would be the perfect place to spend a romantic day away. Krakovec is a castle ruin where we waited out a thunderstorm. The rain pounded all around and we stood in the crumbling tower and enjoyed the wonder. Sazava monastery is one of the oldest established religious institutes in Central Europe. It is peace on earth.

Jested: A Must-do!

Drive north of Prague and you'll soon come to a town called Liberec. I can't tell you much about this town, but what I can tell you is that just outside the border is a small mountain called Jested.

On the top is a unique piece of architecture. Constructed in the 60s, the hotel/restaurant has the whimsical feel of being frozen in both time and space. We had lunch, which was both affordable and delicious, in the round object. The experience was such a treat.

Half the fun of Jested it getting up, and then back down. We took the Swiss-style cable car to the top. It is run by Czech Railways, so you buy a train ticket to move you to the hotel. From the top, we decided to walk down. The first third of the trip was a lovely frolic through the forest. However, the last portion had us shuffling gently down the steep ski slope. We definitely worked off our lunch!

Lovely nature, interesting architecture and good food all in one place: Jested is a must-do!

(See more photos on flickr)

Cesky Raj

Cesky Raj literally translated is Czech Paradise, and that is the perfect name for this little piece of heavenly nature. The area is a nature reserve/ geopark with hiking trails, sandstone columns and castle ruins. An easy day trip from Prague, it is a must do for adventurous nature travelers. Not only will you get a good workout climbing up and down the rock formations and rolling hills covered in forest, you can get a taste of the local villages that still dot the area.

Noc kostelu/Night of Churches

Prague is known as the city of a thousand spires. Once look at the skyline shows a history of devout builders of churches and cathedrals. A new way to experience some of these beautiful structures Prague's annual Noc Kostelů/Night of Churches.

This event began last year and was inspired by a similar Night of Churches held in Vienna. Throughout the city, churches open their doors and hold special events during the evening. A small booklet and map list what's available and when. You can collect stamps in the back of booklet to show which churches you have visited. There are nearly a hundred churches that participate.

Last year I found out about the Night of Churches late so I decided to explore the churches in my neighborhood. It was great to pop into buildings that I probably never would have gone out my way to visit in my normal day. I was treated to an organ concert, free cookies and a host of kind people.

This year we concentrated on Prague 1. We visited churches that we walk by daily but barely register. My favorite was a water and light show at St Salvador, near Charles Bridge. As a choir sang, an artist used a pool of water and a reflecting light to project images until the ceiling of the basilica. It was magical.

Keep a lookout next May for the Night of Churches!

Jubilee Synagogue

Prague is famous for her Jewish Quarter. In a few blocks there are nestled hundreds of years of European Jewish history and heritage. But a lesser known synagogue that can't be entered with the standard Jewish Quarter sight-seeing ticket is the Jubilee Synagogue on Jeruzalémská ulice.

It was built at the beginning of the 20th century. It was called the Jubilee Synagogue because it was built during the year of Emperor Franz Josef I's silver jubilee. Now it is more commonly known and the Jerusalem Street Synagogue. It is still a functioning house of worship. Until recently it was closed to the general public. After recent renovations, the synagogue has been opened to visitors.

It is only 50,-kc (appr. $3), which is a good price for over a hundred years of history, a stunning Art Nouveau interior and an opportunity to quietly reflect in a place of peace. When you are in the center next with 20 minutes to spare, swing by Jubilee Synagogue.

(Photo courtesy of www.geocaching.com)

Going Greek: Zorbas Restaurant

My appetite for nearly any type of cuisine can be met by Prague. There is a heavy helping of Chinese, Italian, Vietnamese, American, Afghani, Indian, and Czech to name just a few. However, I haven't had luck finding a Greek restaurant that really does it for more. Don't get me wrong, there are Greek restaurants in Prague. They have nice ambiance. The food smells enticing. The owners are Greek, smiling and happy. But I alway walk away feeling like I'm missing that something that makes a meal really work.

On the recommendation of several people, I decided to check out Zorbas. It is located just off of Vaclavske Namesti. It was clean and sunny and the owner was very cordial. I had high hopes. However, I must report that once more that something just wasn't hear either. The food was good, and cheaper than other Greek places I've been to in Prague. But the meals weren't cheap, and for the price paid I expected more than just skewer-grilled chicken with a dab of picked vegetables on the side for the mixed grill plate or a square of not-quite-hot-enough mousaka with tomatoes on the side.

The taste was fine but for half the price I think I'll stick with the little Turkish bistros popping up all over town. There's a good one on Jindrisska ulice if you are in the mood for nice eggplant...maybe I'll head that way now!

The Great War

A few years ago there was an exhibit at Prague castle called "World War One on Foot: Through the lens of an unknown soldier" showing black and white photos from World War I. Two things made this exhibition stand out from others.

Firstly, the photographer was unknown. What he had seen was all that was known of his identity. His photos had been stored away in an archive. Secondly, these were not typical war front photos. They pictured the boyishly young soldiers smiling and relaxing around a mess table, they depicted field meals and dress and behaviour. It was a reminder that war has a human face. (Read more about this exhibit now being shown in Ljubljana: )

That photo exhibition was a spark that lead to the discovery of not only the photographer's identity but also to a plethora of WWI photography that was hidden away in attics. And it has led to a follow-up exhibition. This exhibition is called War Photographers 1914-1918. It is comprised of photos from multiple soldiers of different ranks and backgrounds. The rawness is gripping. It is hard to believe how the world has changed in less than a hundred years, and yet we humans made of our flesh and bone remain.

Go take a walk!

The Czech Republic has some of the most extensive public walking trails in the world. These trails are well marked and mapped. Going for a walking day trip is as easy as picking two villages, finding the available trails on www.mapy.cz or buying a walking map of the area at the local book store and setting off.

My money is always on the Berounka River area. The train goes from Prague's main train station about every 30 minutes and the would-be-walker can hop off at nearly any of the towns or villages between Prague and Beroun and find great walking trails connecting to another village where a train going back to Prague will pick you up and take you home.

That's just what I did on a beautiful Saturday. My friend MD and I hopped on a train to Karlstejn. What better way to start a trip then with a view of a fairytale castle? Then we walked our way through about 8 kilometers of forest and fields to the village of Srbsko, where we had some soup and a beer to get our strength back before walking back to Karlstejn and catching a train home. The whole journey took about 5 hours. Delightful!

Kutna Hora

I like weird stuff. I think it is the nerd in me. One of my favorite weird travel sites that I like to seek out is crypts. And for a girl who enjoys a crypt, Kutna Hora is a gold mine.

Actually, I should say silver mine because Kutna Hora made its wealth through the mines that once flooded the town with work, visitors and interest. The legacy of that one time wealth is the beautiful Saint Barbora Cathedral that sits on the highest point, overlooking the city.

Now to crypts! Outside of the center, about 2 kilometers, there is a church where a semi-blind monk once lived. The town had experienced wars and plagues and many people had been buried in the church graveyard. So many, in fact, that the bones began to pile up. So the semi-blind monk began his life project: to transform the pile of bones into art in order to remind the worshipers that life is short and we will all be only bones one day so we must do good while on this earth. A chandelier of bones, a coat of arms from bones, a candle holder of bones, and as odd as it sounds it isn't one bit "icky". It does really remind us that this life is temporary, but the works we do live after us.

So, if life is short then get out there and see Kutna Hora before you are turned into a chandelier too!

SP: Came, Saw, Conquered Prague

I have vague memories of high school, most of them involve studying. I was a bit of a nerd. (I guess nothing has changed.) But some of my favorite memories involve my friend SP. She made me laugh, a lot.

And nothing has changed in 13 years! SP came to Prague and we laughed. A lot.

Having a visitor is what I like best about living abroad. I can show off what makes me tick: travel. The plan was to give SP a glimpse into the real Czech. We headed down to wine country in southern Moravia, a little town called Mikulov. It is my little France. Vineyards spread as far as the hills allow you to see. The people have that joviality that comes with uncorked bottles. We spent an evening in a wine cellar with a lovely bottle of Vlašsky Ryzlink (Riesling).

We took a little detour south to Vienna and took in the imperial sights for a few hours. Then on the way home we slept and supped in Český Krumlov, a fairy tale of a city. We toasted to Bohemian beers as a traditional Roma (Gypsy) band played in the corner of the pub.

I hope SP comes again soon. My stomach hadn't been treated to so many Czech dishes and so much Czech beer in years.

Oh, Ohio

I've been silent. I dropped the ball in February and March when it came to my blog. That is due in large part to my jaunt home to visit a new little bundle of life. Her name is Lucy Soell. I've loved her mom, January Newbanks, for years and years. She has held my hand through all the ups and downs life has thrown at us, she makes me stronger.

And now I get to love her little one. I flew back to Ohio for the sole purpose of sitting on Jan's couch and holding little Lucy. And that is in fact what I did most of the time in Ohio.

When Lucy and I weren't bonding, I was in Zanesville hanging out with my mom and little siblings. I was also able to attend my cousin's baby shower and have breakfast with an old, dear friend.

Usually, when I'm in Ohio I feel like I am a visitor. I run around seeing people and being busy. This is nice because I love these people and I love hugging them. But this time I felt like I was home. There wasn't any running, it was just being. I like being when it involves family, a sweet Lucy, a best friend and her husband, pints of ice cream and Becherovka cocktails. Viva Ohio!

My Valentine

This blog entry is only for me. It concerns my sweet Valentine and the Valentine gift he gave me. The question really is: How to explain and convey this experience? Well, it involves food. Anyone who knows me (especially my students!) know that I am a "foodie". Good food means a good life. This doesn't mean that I don't have the occasional iced coffee at McDonald's, but it does mean that I don't recognize this as food. It doesn't nurture, it doesn't take time, it doesn't bring people together. Those are the things real food do.

My Valentine gave me a gift of food because he knows me. H told me that he wanted to take me to dinner for Valentine's Day. Fair enough, that is a standard for Valentine's Day. But he wouldn't tell me where. Last time he pulled this trick for my birthday a few years back, I found myself at a Michelin starred restaurant. My curiosity was sparked. I put on a skirt and shined my shoes and when we got to the tram he gave me a clue. "Starts with "l""Hmm, didn't ring a bell. "Next letter is a". Still nothing. "D" And it is more than one word? "Yes." Oh my gosh! I think I know.

It was La Degustation Boheme, a world renowned restaurant that specializes in Czech infusion food. The menu consisted of names which anyone who's lived in Prague for awhile should know, but nothing was served as expected. I guess that's the beauty of infusion food. We were served such luxuries as cauliflower puree with caviar, quail egg in aspic, beef tongue and mini crepes.

The meal lasted of nearly 3 hours, during which time we were waited on as if we were the only diners in the restaurant even though it was full. The manager greeted us at the beginning of the meal and checked on us throughout.

It certainly isn't an every day experience, or even once a year. But at least once one should take part in this food theater. Bon apetit!

The Snow Queen

Not long ago I wrote about the National Theater here in Prague. I suppose it is the long winter but I've had a taste for the theater lately. So a few weeks back I bought myself a couple of tickets online and printed them at home (yep, it's that easy), sent a facebook message to H's little sister inviting her out for the day and headed the Stavovske divadlo (The Estates Theater).

I chose a play this time. Hans Christian Andersen's "Snow Queen". A little known fact about me is that I adore fairy tales. I have a collection of fairy tale books back in my mom's house. They are a look into the collective psyche of a culture.

When we arrived at the theater, there were crowds of children quietly filing into the theater. Logically, a fairy tale theater production was a huge draw for the family crowd. The kids were dressed to the nines in frilly dresses and mini tuxedos. Adorable! Every kid should have such a luxurious experience.

The play is the story of a little boy who is abducted by the evil Snow Queen. His best friend goes in search of him, eventually finding him and freeing him from the Queen's clutches. The acting was engaging for both children and adults, the scenery was simple yet layered so that one or two props could be used to illustrate different scenes and the costumes were well designed. My favorite was the Reindeer. The costume was a full reindeer suit for the actor, the clever bit was that the front "legs" were a type of crutch or stilt held by the hands that allowed the actor to lean on them, bent over a bit from the waist so that he imitated the movements of a reindeer.

I can't sing the praises of Czech theater enough. It is affordable. It is culture. It is surprising. It is fun. It just has to be done!

Bohemia Cafe Culture

There is something about an artistic, beautiful piece of cake being whisked to my table in a 1930s cafe that fulfills a need deep inside me that I can't even articulate. Cafe culture is a quiet and centering experience. It isn't a pub. People don't speak loudly. Friends lean over their coffees and whisper secrets and hopes. That cake takes an hour to eat because each bite is savored. The fork slides slowly through the chocolate mousse and lingers in the mouth. Coffee is sipped. Minutes float on.

Here are a few of my recent haunts:

La Creperie
www.lacreperie.cz

Come here to find yourself in France. The staff is friendly and busy, but the crepes come in their own time. Don't come here for a quick lunch, but for a lazy afternoon. The savory crepes are delicious, but it is those sweet caramel and dark chocolate crepes with ice cream that will draw me back to this little creperie.

Erhartova Cukrarna
www.erhartcafe.cz

You will go broke buying the most beautiful little cakes and torts and pies and bonbons and and and...that you have ever seen. Every mouthful of creation is delicate and delicious. Don't count calories here, it is worth the indulgence!

Cafe Slavia
www.cafeslavia.cz

Here is one of my lasting favorites. Slavia sits across from the National Theater and is a great place to admire the beauty of the Vltava River, Charles Bridge and Prague castle at one table. A pianist plays melancholy tunes on a baby-grand. I recommend the hot chocolate with whipped creme.

Cafe Imperial
www.cafeimperial.cz

Imperial is right! This place is pure 1920-1930s Art Nouveau. It is covered in tiles from floor to ceiling. I don't go here for the coffee, although that is nice too; I go here to feel just a little bit like Audrey Hepburn. It just does that to me...

Bookworm: My Life in France

I love reading, cooking and traveling so when my friend A handed me a copy of Julia Child's autobiography "My life in France", I should have known I was about to fall in love. Julia was a woman who seemed to be before her time. She was independent and forward thinking and liberal and yet warm and diplomatic and caring. The ease with which she intertwines stories of food with the open road and with settling in a new place was page turning for this foodie traveler.

I related to her lament about the lose of relationship to food in our modern age. I am lucky enough to have a bakery, butcher, cheese shop and sweet shop all within meters of our flat but even with that luxury I tend to end up shopping in the big super markets for convenience.

On a political note, it was also a sober reminder reading of her husband's experiences during the McCarthy trails that the ebb and tide of right and left cycle and circle. A country drifts one way and then the other and there is never really a golden age. It's just that collective memory is colored rose by nostalgia.

There are some fabulous quotes about adjusting to life abroad. For those who have taken that plunge, they will find a kindred spirit in Ms Julia Child.

"It's easy to get the feeling that you know the language just because when you order a beer they don't bring you oysters," Paul Child, husband of Julia Child, on his French language knowledge

"Travel, we agreed, was a litmus test: if we could make the best of the chaos and serendipity that we'd inevitably meet in transit, then we'd surely be able to sail through the rest of life together just fine." -Julia Child, on her memory of moving to Paris with husband Paul

Miniature trains and big taste

I met a friend for lunch this week. Actually, I do that often because as I have raved on this blog before the lunch specials in Prague make cooking or packing a lunch obsolete. She said to meet her "under the horse". So I dutifully went to Muzeum metro, exited to Wenceslas Square and found her standing under the statue of Saint Wenceslas, who is featured sitting on a horse.

My friend M promised a "fun" lunch. Hmm, fun? We entered a glass fronted building and walked up the wooden spirally steps. As we emerged into the restaurant, I felt a wave a childhood engulf me. The restaurant was abuzz with the sound of model trains. The tables were divided by model train tracks and small model homes and stores and trees. Vytopna restaurant was definitely themed around model trains. The child in me jumped up and down; the adult in me stood still and said, "Yes, M, this is a "fun" lunch!"

The lunch menu consists of soup for 20,-kc and then three main dishes ranging from 59,-kc to 99,-kc. Beware that the daily menu is only in Czech and the normal menu is significantly more costly. So, if your menu Czech isn't up to par then I recommend taking a good dictionary or a good Czech friend. Also, the daily menu isn't for the vegetarians out there.

We ordered our drinks, which came to the table on a little train! We had the kielbasa served with a side of spicy kidney beans. It was YUMMY! And FUN! Choo choo, all aboard for a hearty cheap lunch in the center of Prague!

www.praha-en.vytopna.cz/praha/

A Ballet Critic in One Act

Ok, I admit that I am the worst person in the world to critic ballet. Firstly, I have never been that physically disciplined in my whole life...ever. Secondly, I know nothing about ballet really. And last, but most importantly, I'm a half show attender. Yep, I usually leave early. I know that is dreadful and I don't usually go with that intention but it does seem to work out that way. Whether is is a long day of work ahead, headache, semi-interested co-attendee or impatience in general I have lots of half viewed theater productions under my belt. However, I don't apologize. Even if I don't always make it to the end I go because it is moving and stunning and surprising. And all these emotions can come in an hour and half the same as three hours.

My latest excursion was to see the National Theater's Nutcracker. Everyone knows the Nutcracker, but I can assure you that you have never seen the Nutcracker quite like this. Youri Vamos, the Hungarian choreographer, used A Christmas Carol as his inspiration for the ballet. There was a touch of Nutcracker, a hint of Scrooge and whole heap of creativity. My absolute favorite was the transformation of the Mouse King into a very camp Devil. The whole theater erupted in laughter as a red-tighted, leather-clad devil shook his stuff to Tchaikovsky's classic orchestra notes.

Why do I go to the theater? Because in Prague, it is always a thrilling adventure in experimental creation.

For photos, info and booking of tickets visit: http://www.narodni-divadlo.cz/Default.aspx?jz=en&dk=predstaveni.aspx&sb=3&ic=4598

Cafe Amandine

If I want to try a new cafe, I call my friend A. She does the same. We've been in and out of lovely coffee and tea spots all over this city (and Budapest!). But our favorites seem to always be the ones that style themselves after the French. That could be because A was a Francophile in a former life, teaching French in high school...but I digress.

So this week we found ourselves in Cafe Amandine (http://www.cafeamandine.cz/en/), which is located between Karlovo Namesti and Palackeho Namesti. It is all about the French. The sticky sweet lovely pastries are displayed in a glass counter, the pink and green remind you of Moulin Rouge and the music transports you to Paris. The service was promt and helpful and friendly. The cappuccino was frothy and properly strong. The chocolate bomb mousse cake was...well, the bomb.

I recommend this little spot as a place to meet a friend or read the paper. It lends itself to a lazy afternoon. Two cautions for the cafe-goer: 1. It is a smoking cafe. There is a designated non-smoking area but there is no partition. Luckily no one was smoking the entire time we were there. 2. The prices are mid-range. It isn't as bad as the foreign coffee chains, but also isn't a place to grab a cheap coffee for the road.

Bon apetit! Sante!

Třeboň: Land o' Lakes

The year has begun and we have been on the road again. We spent last Saturday and Sunday driving around Southern Bohemia. We knew that we needed a bit of open road and we'd been toying with different ideas of places to go, but as the weekend got close and the weather was forecasted to be drizzly then we decided to go someplace small and quiet.

Třeboň is a small town with a big reputation for carp. The traditional Czech Christmas dinner is fried carp and potato salad. That was about the extent of my carp knowledge up until last weekend. It turns out it is a huge industry that spans hundreds of years. The modern fisheries are basically mass fish farms. The lakes that make the geography of Southern Bohemia are actually artificial. The nobility and the priests, for hundreds of years, carved out lakes in the landscape and filled them with carp. Why? For the nobility, it was extra cash and it created jobs for the people. For the monasteries it was a to stave off hunger. In the middle ages these fish farms kept the church and the state and the people from starvation.

But what I was really interested in was tasting. And that we did...and well! We went to the restaurant Šupina a Šupinka (www.supina.cz), which translates Scale and Little Scale. To say they specialize in fish is putting it mildly. Restaurace Šupina a Šupinka created a dance of beautiful flavors in my mouth. I'm not even a huge fan of fish, but every bit of the starter and main course (mine and H's) was perfect. Go see for yourself, it is worth the trip! And if you book online before March, you also get a 10% discount.

My second reason for thinking Třeboň was just wonderful was that it is also a spa town. We stayed in Hotel Zlata Hveda, right on the main square. Again, because it was out of season, we got a good deal on the room. They have a wellness center in the hotel so I booked myself a warm peat treatment with massage.

After our little adventure out of Prague, my stomach was happy and my muscles were happy and my head was full of happy Třeboň memories. Třeboň is an excellent place to slow down and enjoy the good things of life.