Departure Photo Exhibition Opening

Are we young and hip or are we getting old and petrified? Well, both answers could apply depending on how you interpret the following evening.

Last night we went to an art exhibition opening for our friend R. He has been taking photos for months and teasing us with the possible themes that his photos would take. R always gave an evil little grin and I could only imagine.

We found the building in the center after wandering round for a bit. The building was newly renovated, with modern glass and stone tiles. We were greeted at the door by a smartly dressed young woman with the guest list. Yep, the exhibition opening was by invitation only. After the smartly dressed young woman, we met a smartly dressed young man. He offered us champagne, which we took. Then another smartly young woman brought by colorful hors d'orves on a silver tray. Life is good in the world of art.

As we got closer to the photos, the buzz of congratulations and excitement filled the warm evening air. R's photos were hanging through the courtyard doorway. The prints were large, so it wasn't possible to miss the blond beauty in the photo laying on the bed with certain pieces of her anatomy exposed. (Trying to keep it rated PG for the kids!) The photos were tasteful and I was proud that R had pushed himself to be a better photographer in an area which he wasn't as comfortable with as buildings.

The theme was "Departure" and all the photos followed those lines. One focused on homelessness, another highlighted the lives of those affected by poverty. All photos expressed departing, and after sipping too much champagne, engaging in all the small talk we needed for a year and feeling full to the brim on life and culture...We, too, took our departure.

Botanicus

I'm a terrible gift buyer but luckily I've found a store here in Prague called Botanicus. It has lovely all natural soaps, body washes, cooking oils, herbs, handmade paper and many more goodies. A gift for everyone!

But more than just solving my gift needs, Botanicus gave me a lovely weekend adventure. It turns out that all those lovely natural products are grown just down the road from Prague in a little village called Ostrá. Besides having never ending French, English and wild gardens, Botanicus has also built its own village from the 1500s. The village is built to scale from authentic materials that would have been used 500 years ago. A few times during the summer there are medieval days where artisans work on candles, wool, blacksmithing in the small houses; jesters and theater troops perform in the streets and cozy outdoor theater; and baked goods full of fruits, jams and poppy seeds are sold at every turn.

I went with three teens and a mom and there was something for everyone. Mom spent lots of time smelling the flowers and enjoying the serenity of the gardens. The boys found a small labyrinth made from bushes and spent a long time chasing each other through the hidden trails. We young ladies enjoyed all the flaky warm pastries and dodging in and out of tiny doorways leading to novelties to smell, touch and try.

The train ride there had been full of energy and excitement and card playing. On the way back to Prague we were all quiet, dreaming of our lives we left back in the 1500s at Botanicus.

www.botanicus.cz

Karlštejn and beyond

There are so many things I love about the Czech Republic, but high on that list is the easy availability of walking trails. They are everywhere. No matter where you go, you will see the small green, blue, yellow or red squares painted on a tree or the side of a fence indicating that this is an official walking trail.

A great place to explore on these trails is the Berounka River valley. As this sluggish river winds its way through the crisp green foliage, little towns and villages sleepily await curious walkers. A few weekends ago my friend C. and I decided to go wake up these sleepy villages by speaking English in their streets and in their pubs.

We took a train to a little village called Srbsko (Serbia) and had a good filling Czech lunch to sustain our walk. Then we struck out for a small pilgrimage town called Svateho Jan pod Skalou. I'm afraid I don't know any of its historical significance beyond that there is a painting of Saint John above a spring that may bring you health if you drink it. (Or a bad case of stomach bacteria...)

We were feeling energetic after our 4 kilometer stroll to Svateho Jan, so we laughed at the sign indicating that Karlštejn Castle was 8.5 kilometers. We can do it! We are fit and young and adventurous!

After 2 kilometers of walking at what felt like a 90 degree angle up a never ending hill, we decided we were unhealthy and old and city folk and we wanted to go home! Luckily the hills evened out and our bodies adjusted and by the time we were in sight of the castle we said to ourselves, "That was no big deal! We could do it again right now." But we didn't. We had ice cream instead.

Bathory

If you are looking for a 2 hour mini-holiday into a secret world full of intrigue, mystery, legend and murder then Bathory is your film. This film is an English language production from Slovakia and the Czech Republic by director Juraje Jakubiska. It is a mix of fanciful fairy tale and history. There are moments when you laugh at the (obviously) ridiculous and other moments when the cruelty of war and greed are overwhelming.

Admittedly, the movie went on and on. It is sectioned into three parts, and I think the first part could have used a bit more editing. But the way the director used cinematography and shifting time sequences to move the audience in and out of events made the two-plus hours go quickly.

The story is about Erzsebet Bathory, a Hungarian noble-woman who had a reputation of killing virgins and bathing in their blood to keep her youthfulness. The film tries to answer the question of who was Erzsebet Bathory. Was she a well-educated woman who vicious lies were told about or was she a cruel master who abused her servants and serfs? Hmm, decisions, decisions.

So, if you liked "Ever After", "A Knight's Tale" and "Friday the 13th" then grab a bucket of popcorn and get watching.

www.ceskatelevize.cz/specialy/bathory/en/

Vanquishing Křivoklat

If you've ever wanted to travel back to the 1400s without all the mess of a time-traveling machine, then I would suggest the castle of Křivoklat. This is a proper castle. It sits above the town in all its medieval-ness just watching the centuries pass by.

The history of most castles is long and drawn out and Křivoklat is no exception. I've been on the tour several times and I know that throughout its history a king lived there, it was a school for underprivileged children, a prison, a hunting lodge, and the list goes on. But for me, the essence of Křivoklat is the dark ages feel of the walls and small courtyard. If Robinhood had been Czech then I'm sure he'd have spent some time around Křivoklat.

H. and I took our most recent visitors to meander around the 1400s a few weeks ago. Standing on the wall, looking over the hillside to the village below, we all felt that we could vanquish the enemy if he tried to attack our fortress. And as luck would have it, there was a man (in medieval costume of course) in the courtyard with crossbows, bows and arrows, string guns and more to let us practice our vanquishing skills. The boys did well. I'm willing to bet they'd played with these types of weapons before. Us girls, we held our own.

We all got a certificate saying we shot weapons at Křivoklat. I'm sure that will hang on the fridge for some time.

www.krivoklat.cz

19th Century Czech Art- Has to be seen!

It was the image of the red umbrella on the posters throughout the metro that caught my attention. Generally, it is art from a little later that catches my eye. For example, I love cubism and impressionism. But the red umbrella wouldn't let me go. The exhibition is being held at the Convent of St George at Prague Castle. Prague Castle just happens to be right down the street from me so I had no excuse, I had to go see the 19th century through Czech eyes.

The exhibition was well paced. I didn't feel rushed on to the next painting, nor did i feel any pressure to linger longer than necessary so people would think I was deeply contemplating some revelation on canvas.

I appreciated that there was a mix of art forms. Some of my favorite pieces were the furniture and clothing, not the paintings. The size of the waists on the hoop-skirt dresses was unbelievable. A man could easily put his hands around the waist, fingers and thumbs touching.

I also found two new artists of interest to me- Mánes and Chittussi. Their landscapes engaged me. I found myself wandering in their paintings, creating the story and escaping the gallery.

The best moment of the entire exhibition came at the end. I was only meters from the exit with only a few paintings left to go. Suddenly, I bumped into an old friend: A painting by Schikandeder called "Early Evening on Hradcany" (V podvečer na Hradčanech). This painting captures Prague for me. (And I have it to thank for the first date with my boyfriend...But that's a story for another day.)


www.ngprague.cz/3/detail/st-george-s-convent/

Rapunzel's Castle

Get on the highway and drive north of Prague. Green fields roll along and petite villages dot the hills. Just when you are lulled into believing the landscape will go on for a million miles, a vision of stone pillars rises up from the green fields.

Once past this plateau of ancient rock called Cesky Raj (Czech Paradise), the fields go from vegetation to "castle-ation". And here lies Sychrov.

Sychrov is a rambling castle with towers, English gardens, valley views and a chapel to boot. My first thought was, "Oh my, this is definitely a castle Rapunzel would appreciate."

The inner courtyard is paved with wooden cobblestones, to soften the effect of the horses hooves H. informs me. It's nice to travel with my own personal Czech tour guide. I get all the insider knowledge.

We exit the shade of the courtyard and enter the sprawling English garden. The sun bathes everything in gold and I honestly believe that Casanova might show-up on a white horse at any moment. Why Casanova? Legend has it that he took a job as a librarian at this very castle in his later years to write the memoirs that made him legendary. If I were going to write my legendary memoirs, Sychrov would certainly be on my list of places to retire to.

The garden paths meander around the chapel, a dried up pond, the summer house, another of Rapunzel's towers, and through blooming violet buds. And that is where our fair tour was doomed. As soon as H. and I got near the blooms our allergies exploded and we strolled quickly to the safety of our car.

But I'd sneeze a million times for a walk through Sychrov.