Trains and Presidents

Without straying too far from home, we can find lots of great adventures to fill an afternoon. This Saturday we entertained ourselves with a few local museums.

The Train Museum at Rakovník was our first stop. Our noses were filled with the smell of coal and oil. Our eyes were full of muscular engines. It was great fun to climb into the conductor's controls and stand on a bit of history.

www.os.cd.cz/muzeum/




Staying with the theme of engines, we next headed to the presidentia-holiday-home town of Lány. A small car museum, which is hidden around a corner and behind a posh hotel, is full classic Fords and ultra-modern race cars.

www.auto-muzeum.cz




Lastly, and almost as an afterthought, we stopped at the Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk museum. Known as TGM, he was the man who fought for an independent Czechoslovakia in 1918 and became the first president of the Republic. He is held in high esteem and much admired by the Czech people. (And he was married to an American!!)

www.muzeumtgm.cz/cz/

Southern Charm

Rain, rain, go away.
Come again another day.

Well, the rain didn't go away so we decided we would go away last weekend. We drove down to the south of the Czech Republic to find windy roads and charming castles.

Our first stop was Červená Lhota. The red chateau sits on a tiny island which connects to an outcrop of land jutting into the lake by a stone bridge. Tourists in rented boats row
under the bridge and around the still lake. I was so warmed by the perfection of it all that not even a little rain could dampen my fairy tale visions.

www.zamek-cervenalhota.eu



It is cliche, but Hluboká nad Vltavou is the stereotypical Disney castle. Now, this castle was built long before Disney's great-grandfather even was a tinkle in somebody's eye but it is the perfect place to run into Sleeping Beaty having a bit of a nap.




I have done many castle tours, but this one was one of the best. The castle was very well curated. I felt as if I was really peaking in on a long ago century. Perhaps a servant would pop out from around the corner or the lady of the house would be surprised by a group of tourists as she mediated in her private chapel.

www.zamek-hluboka.eu


And as we transported ourselves back into the 21st century and headed back to the big city, this quaint view of farm life greeted us....

One Minute International Relations

Tonight we went for a long walk down the hill to the center and decided to take the funicular back to the top of the hill. As we were waiting for the cable car to fill with tourists going up for the view and students going up to their dorms, a couple in their 50s sat down next to us. They were smartly dressed and obviously well travelled.

The man asked us how often the car went up and down the hill and if the ticket would be valid for the journey down in hesitant English. We answered him simply and slowly. He consulted his wife in a speedy and energetic language I didn't recognize. She repeated the questions to us in a stronger English and we confirmed what we'd told her husband.

And then the American in me couldn't hold it any longer..."Where are you from?" came spilling out of my mouth. She paused, considered and then said, "Iran...Do you know Iran?" I smiled warmly and said of course I knew of Iran. "REALLY? You know Iran?! How?" Now it was my turn to pause and consider, "From the news. Your country has been in the news a lot recently."

"Yes, we change. We change slowly, but we change. There are many young people. They make my country better. We aren't like these leaders...we are different. See me, I have nothing on my head or on my face. We want to be like you. We change." She spilled these sentiments out desperately, assuring herself as much as trying to make me understand the plight of the Iranian people. It was moving and sweet, I wanted to hug her and immediately protest in front of an embassy. She was satisfied to be able to show a modern and democratic face to this westerner and this westerner was honored that she choose to speak so freely about her country.

Koněpruské jeskyně

This isn't the moon, it's the depth of the Czech Republic. On a blazing hot afternoon we were desperately seeking a way to be cool. Summer cinema is in quick decline and swimming would only take us into that evil sun. So, we decided to go to the bowels of the earth where it is dark and cool.

We drove a little ways outside of Prague, near the river town of Beroun to Koněpruské jeskyně. These caves gave us the refreshment we craved, and quite an education as well.

The tour took us through tight passages and echoing organ rooms. Each stop on the tour had a little piece of history waiting for us. There was a room where ancient extinct monkey bones had been found and another room where counterfeiters pounded out cooper coins covered in a thin layer of silver just a few hundred years ago.

Koněpruské jeskyně was an oasis of chill in the dessert of summer....But I would recommend it for any time.





www.konepruske-jeskyne.cz

Eating Out

I'm a slow-fooder. Food is almost as interesting to me as travel. Sweet, sour, salty, exotic or local, vegetarian and meat...anything that is fresh and tasty can pass my lips. Here are some of our favorites...

U Bilěho Lva
This is a great little local restaurant for us. The menu is basic and yet creative. The stables are a variety of traditional Czech meals, meats and pastas. They change the menu every few months so you can't get addicted a favorite and never try something new. The herbs are always fresh and the taste bursts in your mouth. But the real treat at U Bilěho Lva (At the White Lion) is the staff. Every waiter is friendly, smiling, helpful and informative. This is worth more than it's weight in chocolate.
www.u-bileholva.cz


Malý Buddha
As the name implies, this one is an Asian themed restaurant with a Mongolian owner who personally oversees the food and seating. If fresh is what you dig in your food, this is the place for you. The ginger tea has the ginger root floating in the pot, the bean sprouts crunch and pop in your mouth and the spring rolls lovingly hand folded. I recommend sitting in the back by the Buddha statue. These back tables are Japanese style, low to the ground with diners sitting on cushions.
www.malybuddha.cz

Restaurace na Prachandě
You need a car to get to this one, but if you are anywhere in the vicinity of Dobřiš you should stop by. If you are lucky enough to be there for the daily menu, you'll be served a very healthy serving of Czech fare that won't make a dent in your wallet. The normal menu is also chalk-full of old favorites and some very yummy house specials.
www.prachanda.cz/?A=homepage

Tandoor
Looking for spicy and affordable Indian in Prague? Look no further, Tandoor will make your nose run but your eyes won't water when the bill comes. The owners are very friendly. Plan for a long meal, it can take a bit of time for the goodness to come from the kitchen.
www.tandoor.cz

Forest Theater/Lesní Divadlo

What's better than nature and culture? Culture in nature! On Saturday night H. and I joined his family for a night of theater in the forest. In the town of Řevnice, about 30k from Prague, there is an outdoor amphitheater and stage. This hosts various events throughout the year, including concerts and theatrical productions.

The play we attended was called Sbalí Karla z Monte Carla? (Is she going to get Karl from Monte Carlo?) A host of characters are holidaying in a posh hotel in Monte Carlo and the audience gets little glimpses into their everyday lives. The actors, who were local amateurs, did a wonderful job bringing to life stereotypical characters, such as the desperate housewife, redneck travelers, politicians, and young blondie girls after old rich men. The audience chuckled for the entire 2 hours, enjoying every joke.

www.revnice.cz