Monday, July 20, 2009

Spitfires and Shakespeare

When most think of summer holidays, they dream of beaches and salt water. But my dear and I had our sights set higher-We were looking to the skies. We decided to head off to jolly England, the West Midlands to be exact, to be enchanted at the Flying Legends air show at the Imperial War Museum at Duxford.

Day 1

Early start! Our flight left Prague at 7.30am. We flew with SkyEurope. It was a relief that we actually had a flight, considering their bankruptcy announcement days before we were due to leave.

We arrived a Luton airport and rented a car. As we all know, England drives on the left side of the road which means the steering wheel is on the right hand. I have to say it took me a minute to get used to sitting on the "driver's side" and being the passenger!

We drove up to Coventry and picked up our friend A. Our destination was the Royal Air Force Museum at Cosford. The museum was very well curated. The displays led you through a century of history, all located on an actual RAF base with airplanes flying overhead and soldiers in boots marching in the distance.

In the evening we sat beside a canal at The Blue Lias Inn in rural England sipping ale and laughing with friends.

Day 2

This was the big day. We had a full English breakfast from the hands of our B&B owner and hopped into the car towards Duxford. H knew what to expect, but this was all new to me. My first surprise was how many people were there. I knew the air show was a big deal, but just how big had escaped me until then. Thousands of people, mostly with telescopic cameras, milled around looking for a piece of grass with a good view.

The show was breathtaking. The airplanes were beautiful, really and truly with goose bumps beautiful. I've always admired aviation and enjoyed flying, but on this day I fell in love. History flew in front of us for three hours, swirling us up and down and around with dog fights and smoke.

At the end, I felt so full I could burst. As we drove away from the airfield, the show was wrapping up. A Spitfire and Messerschmidt from WWII flew over us and for an eerie moment we were transported back to a time where the greatest generation of men and women strived for freedom and justice.

Day 3

No trip to the West Midlands can be complete without a jaunt to Stratford-upon-Avon to pay respects to the master of our language, Will Shakespeare. We began with a pilgrimage to the church where he and his family are buried. Then we briefly walked through the city center, which was so packed with tourists that it was nearly impossible to actually see the buildings. We found solace in a park, near the church, where a free production of Shakespeare's "The Tempest" was being played.

The outdoor performance was nothing that we expected and everything one could ever hope for out of Shakespeare. The cast were dressed in odd ragamuffin clothing and had white clown makeup on their faces. The performance was in a park, and each scene was moved to different locations to make the audience feel like they were moving in time and space with the characters. The cast members who weren't in the current scene stood intermingled with the audience and whispered funny bits, such as, "This guy is a bit rubbish, but in a few minutes I'll be on and you'll see a real actor." You felt like you were in the play, you became part of the scene. Superb!





Day 4

Castles, castles, castles.

Warwick Castle was our first stop. It is a proper medieval castle that has been transformed into a kid amusement park with trampolines, jousting and dress-up. As people without children, we avoided spending too much time there! The village was classic winding streets and antique shops that could suck me in for hours.

Blenheim Palace was second. It was built in the 18th century to commemorate the Battle of Blendtheim. Most recently it is memorable as the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. In one word the palace is: Grand. The parks and gardens spread and twist and delight for acres. The palace interior is a maze of glitz, glint and glamour. Next to Blenheim is the tiny village of Woodstock. A good place for a sandwich and photography.

In the evening we had a very English dinner of fish and chips. As dusk approached, we spent our last moments of daylight trampsing around the ruins of Kenilworth Castle vanquishing dragons and conjuring up the spirits of "Google" to divine the mystery of the area's history.

Day 5

We had an early breakfast, fresh and yummy as it was each day, and headed back to Duxford Imperial War Museum to spend the morning exploring the hangers we hadn't been able to visit during the air show. It was stunning to see these machines that were captivating in the skies, as captivating on the ground.

Finally, it was off to Luton again to fly into the skies ourselves and head home. Oh, home sweet home.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Prague Museum Night 2009


I look forward every summer to Museum Night. It has been a fixture of the Prague cultural program for 5 years. I was introduced to it by my boyfriend, who used it to woo me and win me over to be his years ago. Museum Night is always a Saturday night in the middle of June when all the museums of Prague open their doors from 6.00pm-1.00am to the public for free.

Every year the crowds have grown, and last year it was overwhelming trying to get into any museum. So I decided this year I would only choose one or two I really wanted to see and try to avoid massive crowds. I went with my a place that always comforts me, and where smiles come easily. I visited the third floor of the Prague National Gallery in Veletržní palác. Czech and French artist from 1900 to 1930. I adore impressionism. The straight lines, the dabs of color, the world seen not as it is but as it is felt. I spent some time with Václav Špála, traveling on lines of rose and green to rivers of blue that flowed and pulled me into their depths.



I wanted to also go to the Museum of Czech Cubism at the Black Madonna house. However, the line was down the steps and backed out the door. I am willing to come back on a sleepy day in the future and pay for the privilegde of walking alone in the gallery. I walked from the Black Madonna house through bendy alleyways to Old Town Square. My camera came along on the trip with me and we got some good photos.

As the night dripped and covered the daylight and dark clouds rolled in, I found a tram to take me home.



www.prazskamuzejninoc.cz/clanek.php?id=1&l=en
http://www.ngprague.cz/en/16/sekce/national-gallery-in-prague/

Budapest 09


It wasn't my first trip to Budapest. It wasn't even my second. This was my third time I boarded a train and headed to Budapest. And I was hoping third time would be the charm for me, because up until now I had not been converted into a Budapest fan.

The first two trips had involved dodgy accommodation, gloomy weather and unfulfilled expectations. But I decided that this trip, this third time east, would be the trip to make me fall in love with Budapest. And it worked! Well, I can't say I'm in love with Budapest but I now have a strong appreciation and affection for her.

I took the train to Bratislava to meet T and G on a Friday afternoon. We had a nice traditional Slovak meal in the center and then hopped a train to Budapest. We arrived in the cool of the afternoon and found our hotel easily. The hotel was actually a building of family apartments that had been reconstructed into rented apartments. Great location, clean and comfortable with internet, a kitchen, washer and fridge (www.agapetours.hu). Home away from home.

Dinner was a nice traditional Hungarian meal with a live Hungarian band serenading us, and then trying to badger us into buying them a round of shots. The beer was a sweet Pilsner and went down smoothly, facilitating my sweet dreams.


Saturday the only plan was the spas. We spent hours soaking and swimming in the warm waters of Széchenyi Medicinal Bath. We had a long walk to the park, enjoyed a wine festival that offered not only wine but cheeses, meats and sweets...a feast for eyes and mouth.


Sunday we walked through the center and watched the sleepy city wake up. Our journey ended at the Castle, where we parted ways. I found my way to the train station, fully satisfied with my third Budapest experience.