19th Century Czech Art- Has to be seen!

It was the image of the red umbrella on the posters throughout the metro that caught my attention. Generally, it is art from a little later that catches my eye. For example, I love cubism and impressionism. But the red umbrella wouldn't let me go. The exhibition is being held at the Convent of St George at Prague Castle. Prague Castle just happens to be right down the street from me so I had no excuse, I had to go see the 19th century through Czech eyes.

The exhibition was well paced. I didn't feel rushed on to the next painting, nor did i feel any pressure to linger longer than necessary so people would think I was deeply contemplating some revelation on canvas.

I appreciated that there was a mix of art forms. Some of my favorite pieces were the furniture and clothing, not the paintings. The size of the waists on the hoop-skirt dresses was unbelievable. A man could easily put his hands around the waist, fingers and thumbs touching.

I also found two new artists of interest to me- Mánes and Chittussi. Their landscapes engaged me. I found myself wandering in their paintings, creating the story and escaping the gallery.

The best moment of the entire exhibition came at the end. I was only meters from the exit with only a few paintings left to go. Suddenly, I bumped into an old friend: A painting by Schikandeder called "Early Evening on Hradcany" (V podvečer na Hradčanech). This painting captures Prague for me. (And I have it to thank for the first date with my boyfriend...But that's a story for another day.)


www.ngprague.cz/3/detail/st-george-s-convent/

Rapunzel's Castle

Get on the highway and drive north of Prague. Green fields roll along and petite villages dot the hills. Just when you are lulled into believing the landscape will go on for a million miles, a vision of stone pillars rises up from the green fields.

Once past this plateau of ancient rock called Cesky Raj (Czech Paradise), the fields go from vegetation to "castle-ation". And here lies Sychrov.

Sychrov is a rambling castle with towers, English gardens, valley views and a chapel to boot. My first thought was, "Oh my, this is definitely a castle Rapunzel would appreciate."

The inner courtyard is paved with wooden cobblestones, to soften the effect of the horses hooves H. informs me. It's nice to travel with my own personal Czech tour guide. I get all the insider knowledge.

We exit the shade of the courtyard and enter the sprawling English garden. The sun bathes everything in gold and I honestly believe that Casanova might show-up on a white horse at any moment. Why Casanova? Legend has it that he took a job as a librarian at this very castle in his later years to write the memoirs that made him legendary. If I were going to write my legendary memoirs, Sychrov would certainly be on my list of places to retire to.

The garden paths meander around the chapel, a dried up pond, the summer house, another of Rapunzel's towers, and through blooming violet buds. And that is where our fair tour was doomed. As soon as H. and I got near the blooms our allergies exploded and we strolled quickly to the safety of our car.

But I'd sneeze a million times for a walk through Sychrov.

Train Spotting: How to get where you want to go by rail in CZ

I have always been fascinated by train travel. Deep down the train represents to the American in me open prairies, the Wild West and freedom. Train travel is romantic, exotic, and something we do not do much of back in Ohio. So, you can imagine my joy when I moved to Prague and train travel became part of my everyday life. Throughout my years here in Prague I have learned a few tips and short cuts to make journeying by train more smooth, pleasant and economical.

Train Stations

Prague has over ten different train stations, however most of them are not much more then a local platform in the suburbs. The two hub train stations are Hlavní Nádraží and Nádraží Holešovice. Most trains run through one of these stations. But before showing up with your pack back for that weekend away be sure to always check the departure station and arrival station on your ticket. Both Hlavní Nádraží and Nádraží Holešovice are located on metro line C (also known as the red line).

Hlavní Nádraží is Prague's main station. The word "hlavní" means "main" in Czech and "nádraží" is Czech for "station". Hlavní Nádraží has two main levels. On the first level, you will find several information desks. The staff speak English and can provide information about time tables, ticket prices, and where to purchase different types of tickets. Along the main wall there is a long line of service windows marked with different letters of the alphabet. This is where you can make your purchase. Most staff at theses windows speak little or no English. I find the best solution is to write down exactly what I want: time, destination, one way or return. This can eliminate confusion later.

On the second level are some small refreshment stands and the passage to the platforms. Above the second floor and under the dome of the station is a small Art Nouveau cafe. If you have some change and time to spare, it is a quaint place to have a Turkish style coffee.

Another of my favorite things located on the second level of Hlavní Nádraží is the Wasteels office. Wasteels is a company which specializes in international train tickets. The friendly staff are always ready to lend a helping hand in planning travel by train. Because Wasteels is focused on international train travel they know all the best deals. More then once Wasteels has saved me money. For example, some destinations have a discounted fare if a ticket is bought 48 hours in advance.

In-karta

Everyone wants to save a few crowns if possible, and Czech railways (České Dráhy) has a program that lets you do just that. Expats who have been around Prague for awhile may know or have the Z-karta discount card. As of the first of the year the Z-karta discount program has been replaced by the In-karta program. The In-karta is an electronic chip card that looks much like a standard debit/credit card. This card allows the client to claim a discounted customer fare on tickets within the Czech Republic and on domestic portions of international journeys.

All the information needed for obtaining the In-karta can be found on the website www.inkarta.cz (click the UK flag for English instructions). Unfortunately, the application form is only in Czech. But the website has a link on how to fill out this form with instructions in English. Along with the application form, you must submit a passport size photo, a state issued form of id (ie passport), and 600 czk. The application can be submitted at any train station that has electronic ticketing equipment. After you submit the application you will be given a confirmation paper which functions as a preliminary In-karta. This preliminary card can be used while waiting for your In-karta electronic card. Your confirmation paper will tell you when and where to pick up your electronic card. The In-karta is valid for 3 years.

Happy trails

The saying goes, “All great adventures begin with the first step”. So, get out there and take that step! Whether you take a local train an hour to Kutná Hora or spend 17 hours with guy next to you drooling on your shoulder as you clickety-clack to Croatia (I have person experience with this very situation!) I wish you happy train travels.

Other websites

When planning your trip there are several other sites that can make things a little easier:

www.idos.cz
IDOS is a great page for finding your way from point A to point B. The site works for international trips by train, plane and bus from the Czech Republic. It also has public transportation information for all major Czech cities.

www.cd.cz
The Czech railway official website has information about special savings, booking tickets on line, and reserving a seat.

www.wasteels.cz
The Wasteels web page has opening hours, the company address, and links to useful travel sites.