Cesky Raj

Cesky Raj literally translated is Czech Paradise, and that is the perfect name for this little piece of heavenly nature. The area is a nature reserve/ geopark with hiking trails, sandstone columns and castle ruins. An easy day trip from Prague, it is a must do for adventurous nature travelers. Not only will you get a good workout climbing up and down the rock formations and rolling hills covered in forest, you can get a taste of the local villages that still dot the area.

Noc kostelu/Night of Churches

Prague is known as the city of a thousand spires. Once look at the skyline shows a history of devout builders of churches and cathedrals. A new way to experience some of these beautiful structures Prague's annual Noc Kostelů/Night of Churches.

This event began last year and was inspired by a similar Night of Churches held in Vienna. Throughout the city, churches open their doors and hold special events during the evening. A small booklet and map list what's available and when. You can collect stamps in the back of booklet to show which churches you have visited. There are nearly a hundred churches that participate.

Last year I found out about the Night of Churches late so I decided to explore the churches in my neighborhood. It was great to pop into buildings that I probably never would have gone out my way to visit in my normal day. I was treated to an organ concert, free cookies and a host of kind people.

This year we concentrated on Prague 1. We visited churches that we walk by daily but barely register. My favorite was a water and light show at St Salvador, near Charles Bridge. As a choir sang, an artist used a pool of water and a reflecting light to project images until the ceiling of the basilica. It was magical.

Keep a lookout next May for the Night of Churches!

Jubilee Synagogue

Prague is famous for her Jewish Quarter. In a few blocks there are nestled hundreds of years of European Jewish history and heritage. But a lesser known synagogue that can't be entered with the standard Jewish Quarter sight-seeing ticket is the Jubilee Synagogue on Jeruzalémská ulice.

It was built at the beginning of the 20th century. It was called the Jubilee Synagogue because it was built during the year of Emperor Franz Josef I's silver jubilee. Now it is more commonly known and the Jerusalem Street Synagogue. It is still a functioning house of worship. Until recently it was closed to the general public. After recent renovations, the synagogue has been opened to visitors.

It is only 50,-kc (appr. $3), which is a good price for over a hundred years of history, a stunning Art Nouveau interior and an opportunity to quietly reflect in a place of peace. When you are in the center next with 20 minutes to spare, swing by Jubilee Synagogue.

(Photo courtesy of www.geocaching.com)

Going Greek: Zorbas Restaurant

My appetite for nearly any type of cuisine can be met by Prague. There is a heavy helping of Chinese, Italian, Vietnamese, American, Afghani, Indian, and Czech to name just a few. However, I haven't had luck finding a Greek restaurant that really does it for more. Don't get me wrong, there are Greek restaurants in Prague. They have nice ambiance. The food smells enticing. The owners are Greek, smiling and happy. But I alway walk away feeling like I'm missing that something that makes a meal really work.

On the recommendation of several people, I decided to check out Zorbas. It is located just off of Vaclavske Namesti. It was clean and sunny and the owner was very cordial. I had high hopes. However, I must report that once more that something just wasn't hear either. The food was good, and cheaper than other Greek places I've been to in Prague. But the meals weren't cheap, and for the price paid I expected more than just skewer-grilled chicken with a dab of picked vegetables on the side for the mixed grill plate or a square of not-quite-hot-enough mousaka with tomatoes on the side.

The taste was fine but for half the price I think I'll stick with the little Turkish bistros popping up all over town. There's a good one on Jindrisska ulice if you are in the mood for nice eggplant...maybe I'll head that way now!

The Great War

A few years ago there was an exhibit at Prague castle called "World War One on Foot: Through the lens of an unknown soldier" showing black and white photos from World War I. Two things made this exhibition stand out from others.

Firstly, the photographer was unknown. What he had seen was all that was known of his identity. His photos had been stored away in an archive. Secondly, these were not typical war front photos. They pictured the boyishly young soldiers smiling and relaxing around a mess table, they depicted field meals and dress and behaviour. It was a reminder that war has a human face. (Read more about this exhibit now being shown in Ljubljana: )

That photo exhibition was a spark that lead to the discovery of not only the photographer's identity but also to a plethora of WWI photography that was hidden away in attics. And it has led to a follow-up exhibition. This exhibition is called War Photographers 1914-1918. It is comprised of photos from multiple soldiers of different ranks and backgrounds. The rawness is gripping. It is hard to believe how the world has changed in less than a hundred years, and yet we humans made of our flesh and bone remain.